Mary Zophres

Biography

Mary Zophres is an American costume designer. In a career spanning over three decades, she is recognised for her prolific work across independent films and blockbusters. She has been nominated for the Academy Award for Best Costume Design four times. Zophres is best known for her collaborations with directors such as the Coen brothers, Steven Spielberg, and Damien Chazelle. Zophres was born in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. Her father was born in Ioannina, Greece. She graduated from Vassar College with degrees in art history and studio art. After graduation, Zophres moved to New York City and began her career in fashion, which included stints for Norma Kamali and Esprit, among others. She first went into film production, being the extras wardrobe supervisor on Oliver Stone's 1989 film Born on the Fourth of July. She worked under costume designer Judy L. Ruskin, who first tasked her to sort through and organise massive piles of thrifted buy-by-the-pound clothing into categories: '50s, '60s, and '70s, and then asked her to return another day. Zophres subsequently worked as an associate costume designer for Ruskin on three more films, including the 1991 film City Slickers. Zophres moved to Los Angeles and began a professional relationship with designer Richard Hornung. She worked for him on several films, including the Coen brothers's 1994 film The Hudsucker Proxy. During the preproduction of Coen's 1996 film, Fargo Hornung felt ill and couldn't finish the project. He recommended Zophres instead. She continued a creative partnership with the Coen brothers on all of their subsequent films.